Sewing machine, in particular for making the edge on the type of shoes commonly known as mocassins

ABSTRACT

A machine for sewing a binding to a vamp in making mocassins has a throad plate on which the pieces to be joined rest, a reed dog engageable with the work and having a rotary motion in the exit direction of the work and a second feed dog having an oscillating movement about an axis approximately perpendicular to the axis of the needle and synchronized with the movement of the first feed dog. The second feed dog cooperates with the first feed dog in moving the pieces to be joined and in penetrating between the folds so as to regulate the depth and width of the edge made on the mocassin. A further feature is that means operating in synchronism with the reciprocation of the needle is provided for lifting the presser foot from the work while it is being moved.

United States Patent '[191 1 51 Dec. 4, 1973 SEWING MACHINE, IN PARTICULAR FOR MAKING THE EDGE ON THE TYPE OF SHOES COMMONLY KNOWN AS MOCASSINS [76] Inventor: Antonio Zechini, Via Medaglie dOro, Fermo, Italy [22] Filed: Nov. 8, 1972 21 Appl. No.2 304,658

[30] Foreign Application Priority Data Nov. 8, 1971 Italy .L 3560 A/7l [52] US. Cl. .[112/216, 112/47 [51] Int. Cl D05b 27/02 [58] Field of Search 112/47, 203, 215, 1 12/216, 214

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,149,456 3/1939 Merrick 112/47 2,159,416 5/1939 Anderson 112/217 2,695,579 ll/l954 Pears alljhn, l12/47 Primary ExaminerPatrick D. Lawson AttorneyR0bert E. Burns et a1.

57 ABSTRACT A machine for sewing a binding to a vamp in making mocassins has a throad plate on which the pieces to be joined rest, a reed dog engageable with the work and having a rotary motion in the exit direction of the work and a second feed dog having an oscillating movement about an axis approximately perpendicular to the axis of the needle and synchronized with the movement of the first feed dog. The second feed dog cooperates with the first feed dog in moving the pieces to be joined and in penetrating between the folds so as to regulate the depth and'width of the edge made on the inocassin. A further feature is that means operating in synchronism with the reciprocation of the needle is provided for lifting the presser foot from the work while it is being moved. I

4 Claims, 3 Drawing Figures PATENTED DEC 4 I975 SHEET 10F 2 SEWING MACHINE, IN PARTICULAR FOR MAKING THE EDGE ON THE TYPE OF SHOES COMMONLY KNOWN AS MOCASSINS The present invention relates to a sewing machine, in particular for making the edge on the type of shoes commonly know as mocassins.

At present the edge on mocassins is made by manually sewing binding to a vamp in such a way. that the border of the vamp penetrates inside the folded over strip of binding.

With sewing by hand, howeyer, there is the difficulty of a lack of uniformity along the edge of the mocassin since the operative has to continually exercise a considerable tension on the two flaps to be joined and on the thread, so it is obvious that after a certain period of time his or her physical condition is no longer such as to allow constant and uniform pressure to be applied along the complete edge.

Attempts have been made to use sewing machines of the known type to sew the edge on mocassins but this has not provided any satisfactory result insofar-as industrial production requirements are concerned.

On traditional sewing machines the stitch is formed by interlacing the upper thread carried by the needle which moves up and down across the part to be sewn, with the lower thread contained in the bobbin which undergoes a reciprocating or rotatory motion through the loop formed by the upper thread; Once the two threads have been interlaced a special device puts them under tension whilst another device, commonly known. as a feed dog, causes the part to be sewn to move-for- -ward by an amount corresponding to the length of the stitch.

With the traditional type of sewing machine, not only is the stitching process lengthy but it isalso difficultxto set the two parts to be joined together on the machine. Another problem is that seldom is it possible to obtain an edge wherein the depth is constant or. the-curvature along the edge is uniform. The use of traditional sewing machines has, therefore, been abandonedandthus-the edge on mocassins is still being made by hand; 7 In order. to achieve production on an-industrial scale,

sewing machines-have been designed which operate.

with two parallel needles, perpendicular. to the plane of the vamp. Such machines which provide twin parallel stitching cannot, ,however, put a proper edge on=- mocassins. g

The main object of this invention-is to make it'possible'for the edge on mocassins to be, stitched mechanically in a considerably shorter space oftime than would be required to perform the same operation manually orv with traditional machines.

Afurtherobject is to provide a uniform stitch in such a way that the edge is always the same thickness and the same depth all along its length.

A .further object is to provide stitching in which the tension on the thread is uniform-right along the edge,

with equal tension applied to the pieces of leather to be.

vided with a rotary motion in a direction coinciding with the exit direction of the pieces, an essential feature 'of the machine being that it comprises a second feed dog positioned with its axis in a direction almost perpendicular to the axis of the needle and provided with a circular oscillating movement on a plane perpendicular to the working directrix of the needle synchronized with the movement of the first feed dog, the said second feed dog being suitable to cooperate with the first feed dog in moving the pieces and in penetrating between the folds so as to regulate the depth and the width of the edge being made.

According to a further characteristic, the machine forming the subject of the present invention isprovided with a device for automatically removing the presser foot of the machine from the level of the pieces to be joined whilst the said pieces are being moved, this device being dependent on the movement of the needle carrying shaft and operating in timing with the reciprocating movement of the needle. i

These characteristics will now be more fully described and explained with reference to one form of embodiment which is not the sole one and which is given: purely as an unlimited example with the aid of the drawings, shown on the accompanying tables in which:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view, looking upwards, of a section of the machine forming the subject of the invention, with particular emphasis placed on the two devices for moving along the parts to be sewn;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the two edges of the pieces to be joinedtogether inserted in between the devices which move them along;

FIG. 3 diagrammatieally illustrates the operational phases for the two devices which move the pieces along. I

With reference to FIG. 1, a sewing machine 1 is provided with an electric motor 2 which is suitably carried by the machine support structure.

The shaft of the motor 2 has a grooved wheel 44 keyed on to it and this is mechanically connected by means of a belt 5 to a grooved wheel 6 mounted on a main shaft 7 which provides the motion to all the moving parts on the sewing machine,such as the needle 8 which undergoes a horizontal reciprocating motion and axfeed dog 9 operating in a position which is almost on the same plane as the needle and provided with a rotary motion.

All the transmission units for providing the needle 8 and'the feed dog 9 with their motion are notshown since they are identical to those to be found on a traditional sewing machine. The feed dog 9 is housed inside a hollow tubular body 10 and is arranged in such a way thatwhilst it is moving it goes fully below the surface of the tubular body 10 when the needle is moving downwards and is passing through the leather but rises and movesoutside, through a slot in thetubular body, when the needle is lifted away from the sewn leather. Thus the feed dog9 moves the pieces along in the-direction of the arrow f, then passes below the surface of the tubular body and returns to its former position by rotating in the opposite direction to that of the arrow f, after which'it returns to its former departure position. At 1 I there is a foot which keeps the leather pressed up against the lateralsurface of the tubular body 10 whilst thestitching is in progress. The foot 1 1 can be manually lifted at the commencement of the stitching operation by means of a take-up lever 12 which operates on a presser bar 13 to which the foot is connected.

The rod 13 is extended to exit from the needle carrying head of the machine and at one extremity it is connected to an arm 14 perpendicular to the said rod 13.

At 15 there is the needle carrying shaft of the machine forming the subject of the invention.

The base structure 4 carries all the mechanical connections through which the movement is passed to a second feed dog 16, the purpose of which will be claritied in due course.

A description will now be given of how the feed dog 16 is moved. The main shaft 7, through a crown wheel and pinion, moves a driven shaft 18 suitably carried by the structure 4.

A cam 19 is rigidly mounted on the lower extremity of the shaft 18 which engages with a forked lever 20 pivoted at 20a to the base structure 4. The rear extremity of the lever 20 is fastened at 20b to one end of an oscillating arm 21 to which a second arm 22 is connected.

The arm 22 engages at one end with a lever 23 pivoted to the base structure 4.

The other end of the oscillating arm 21 engages at 21a with the end of a lever 24 integral with a shaft 25 which is also carried by the base structure 4.

At 26 there is an arm pivoted at 26a to a sleeve 27 integral with the extremity of a lever 28 connected to the shaft 25.

The body 29 of the feed dog 16 is provided with an axial slot 29a inside which is housed a stud 30 connected to the base structure 4 in such a way that it is able to rotate, the purpose of which is to carry the said body 29. The rear end of the body 29 is pivoted at 50 in an almost middle part of the arm 26.

A lever 31 is connected at 32 to a shaft 35 carried, in such a way that it is able to rotate, by the base structure 4 to which a tie rod 33, more about which will be said in due course, is connected.

A further lever 34 is fixed to a shaft 36 carried, in such a way that it is able to rotate, by the base structure The said lever 34 has a stud 37 pivoted on to it and this works in conjunction with an end of the arm 26.

A spring 38 is fastened to the lever 34 and to the lever 31 in such a way as to keep them close together in order to obtain a grip on the end of the arm 26.

A second lever 39 connected to the shaft 35 is subjected to the action of a spring 40, more about which will be said in due course.

With reference to the foregoing, a description of the operation of the machine forming the subject of the invention will now be given.

When the lever 12 has been placed in the position shown as 12a, a consequence of which, as is known, is the displacement of the foot 11 from the tubular body 10, using a special pedal which is not shown on the be displaced in the direction of the arrow 100 thereby annulling the tension applied by the spring 40. The result of this is that due to the end of the arm 26 being gripped in between the lever 31 to which the tie-rod 33 is connected and the lever 34, the body 29 of the feed dog 16 follows the displacement of the tie-rod 33 thus causing the feed dog 16 to be moved away from the .drawings, the tie-rod 33 is operated so as to cause it to feed dog 9. Under these working conditions, the vamp 41 and the binding 42, previously suitably placed together, are carried to the working position, as clearly shown invFlG. 2. x

At this juncture the lever 12 is returned to its former position and with the cessation of the pull applied by the tie-rod 33, the tension applied by .the spring 40 causes the feed dog 16 to position itself again adjacent to the feed dog 9 and to penetrate inside the folds of the binding 42.

In This way the feed dog 16 serves as a proper control unit for regulating the working position of the vamp and binding.

At this stage the motor 2 is switched on and thus whilst the needle 8 begins to perform its stitching action, the feed dog 9 assisted by the feed dog 16 causes the gradual and automatic forward movement of the edges of the vamp and binding.

Thus whilst the feed dog 9 undergoes, as stated above, a rotatory movement, the feed dog 16, on account of the presence of the cam 19 and of the lever 20 which cause the shaft 25 to rotate in a reciprocating fashion, is provided with a circular oscillating motion in the direction of the arrows 103 and 104 in time with the movements efiected by the feed dog 9.

The presence of the feed dog 16 ensures that the edges of the vamp and binding be infed perfectly and allows, particularly where there are curvatures along theedge being made, the extema] part to be better pulled whilst the forming operation is being carried out which is advantageous from the point of view of profiling the edges.

A spigot 45 fixed to the tubular body 10 operates in contrast with the feed dog 16 and this ensures that the edges through which the needle 8 has to pass during the stitching operation be firmly positioned.

In order to favour the forward movement of the edges being sewn, provision has been made for the needle carrying shaft 15 to hit, whilst returning upwards, the arm 14 fixed to the end of the rod 13 so as to cause the rod to be automatically displaced in the direction of the arrow 106 and the consequent displacement of the presser foot 11 from the tubular body 10, these movements being synchronized with the active phase of the feed dogs 9 and 16, or to be more precise whilst th pieces to be edged move forward.

In FIG. 3 there is a graph which shows the displacements the feed dog 9 and the feed dog 16 undergo during the period of time in which the main shaft 7 completes one complete revolution. The parts shown with phantom lines indicate the non-operative phases of the feed dogs.

Obviously the description given in the foregoing text is purely indicative and it is therefore understood that variations to the design, such as for example, changes in the structure and in the shapes of the machines can be made to'suit the requirements and that the feed dog 9 and the feed dog 16 can be replaced with other technically equivalent units which may work in a different fashion and that the various drive mechanism can be replaced with other equivalent units without the invention deviating in any way'from the framework of the under mentioned claims.

What we claim is:

1. Sewing machine, in particular for making the edge on the type of shoes commonly known as mocassins, of the type comprising a feed dog located in the direction of the needle, below the throat plate on which the pieces to be joined together rest, the said feed dog being provided with a rotary motion in a direction coinciding with the exit direction of the pieces, an essential feature of the machine being that it comprises a second feed dog positioned with its axis in a direction almost perpendicular to the axis of the needle and provided with a circular oscillating movement on a plane perpendicular to the working directrix of the needle synchronized with the movement of the first feed dog, the second feed dog being suitable to cooperate with the first feed dog in moving the pieces and in penetrating in between the folds so as to regulate the depth and the width of the edge being made.

2. Machine according to claim 1, wherein provision is made for a device to automatically remove the presser foot of the machine from the level of the pieces to be joined whilst the said pieces are being moved, this device being dependent on the movement of the needle carrying shaft and operating in timing with the reciprocating movement of the needle.

3. Machine according to the preceding claims, wherein manually operatable mechanical follow up means are connected to the second feed dog, these being to allow the second feed dog to be moved away from the first feed dog whilst the edges of the pieces to be edged are inserted between the first and the second feed dog.

4. Machine according to the preceding claims, wherein the second feed dog penetrates in between the folds to be joined from any direction, the machine being provided with any form of movement by which the pieces can be moved. 

1. Sewing machine, in particular for making the edge on the type of shoes commonly known as ''mocassins,'' of the type comprising a feed dog located in the direction of the needle, below the throat plate on which the pieces to be joined together rest, the said feed dog being provided with a rotary motion in a direction coinciding with the exit direction of the pieces, an essential feature of the machine being that it comprises a second feed dog positioned with its axis in a direction almost perpendicular to the axis of the needle and provided with a circular oscillating movement on a plane perpendicular to the working directrix of the needle synchronized with the movement of the first feed dog, the second feed dog being suitable to cooperate with the first feed dog in moving the pieces and in penetrating in between the folds so as to regulate the depth and the width of the edge being made.
 2. Machine according to claim 1, wherein provision is made for a device to automatically remove the presser foot of the machine from the level of the pieces to be joined whilst the said pieces are being moved, this device being dependent on the movement of the needle carrying shaft and operating in timing with the reciprocating movement of the needle.
 3. Machine according to the preceding claims, wherein manually operatable mechanical follow up means are connected to the second feed dog, these being to allow the second feed dog to be moved away from the first feed dog whilst the edges of the pieces to be edged are inserted between the first and the second feed dog.
 4. Machine according to the preceding claims, wherein the second feed dog penetrates in between the folds to be joined from any direction, the machine being provided wiTh any form of movement by which the pieces can be moved. 